If you’re formulating for sun care, you’ll want to take a look at the innovative ingredients now available through HARKE UK & Ireland. From SPF boosters and film formers to dispersants and water-resistance agents, we’ve got the ingredients you’ll need for your next sun care formulation.

 

CosmoSurf®

CosmoSurf® is a range of naturally derived, oil soluble, film-forming polymers from SurfaTech that offer a biodegradable alternative to traditional acrylate film formers. In sun care applications, these polymers act as film-formers, SPF boosters, wetting agents, dispersants and water-resistance agents while providing a light, non-greasy skin feel. 

• CosmoSurf® CE-100: Acts as a solubiliser for UV filters and provides a waterproof layer in sun care applications. Used alongside other CosmoSurf grades in an anhydrous sunscreen gel, CE-100 contributed to a static SPF of over 40 that held up well after 80 minutes of water immersion.
• CosmoSurf® CE-140/150: Soft-solid and solid grades of a stearyl/octyldodecyl citrate crosspolymer film former with very good water resistance. Naturally derived, oil soluble, and made from renewable starting materials. Also designed to help avoid ‘white-out’ upon application to wet skin. In a zinc oxide sunscreen, CE-140 supported an SPF above 50 with very water-resistant performance in an 80-minute immersion test. 
• CosmoSurf® DDG 20: A very water-resistant, film-forming polymer with tunable aesthetics. DDG 20 is light, non-greasy and non-sticky, made from natural and renewable starting materials based on dimer acid and branched alcohol end groups. It provides up to 80 minutes of water resistance in O/W and W/O emulsions and (alcohol-based) spray products. DDG 20 also improves zinc oxide and titanium dioxide dispersion and helps control viscosity at high mineral filter loadings.
• CosmoSurf® DDG 28: A closely related film-forming polymer that is light, slightly waxy, and mitigates dry alcohol feel. It provides up to 80 minutes of water resistance in O/W and W/O emulsions and (alcohol-based) spray products. DDG 28 has been shown to increase the UV absorbance of a zinc oxide dispersion compared with a standard dispersant. It avoids ‘white out’ upon application with a light, slight waxy feel that migrates to a dry alcohol feel.

 

Leniphenol

Leniphenol is a patented blend of 3 balanced polyphenols derived from the bark of recycled, FSC-certified industrial wood. In sun care, it increases SPF by acting as a booster for chemical and physical UV filters, and it soothes and reduces UV-induced damage (such as oxidative stress and erythema) as well protecting from pollution.

Leniphenol also offers colour-correction, reducing the strong colour given by filters. Within mineral sunscreens it tones down the white cast, and within chemical sunscreens it softens excessive yellow tones. This functionality also offers formulators the chance to develop more inclusive sunscreens, better suited to darker skin phototypes. 

 

Dermalcare® VELVET MB

Dermalcare® VELVET MB is a breakthrough plant-based emollient that redefines cosmetic formulation. As a natural alternative to lanolin, it offers gentle care for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Its advanced film-forming technology delivers long-lasting hydration and protection. 

In sun care, Dermalcare® VELVET MB boosts SPF performance (evaluated in vitro and in vivo) and improves the dispersion, wetting and solubilisation of UV filters. It enhances water resistance and is ideal for sun creams, lotions and oils, ensuring a superior sensory experience.

 

Other Ingredients

If you’re looking to work on sunless tanning or tan boosting formulations, take a look at our feature blog on Sunless Tanning, which includes:

• Sunsafe® DHA, for reliable and natural-looking colour
• Erythrulose and Macksolv™ DMI, to enhance and extend a tan
• Tyrostan® PF and Tyrosinol, to boost natural melanin for a sun-kissed look

We also supply selected UV filters.

 

Find Out More

To learn more about any of the sun care ingredients featured in this blog, simply get in touch with our experienced team here at HARKE UK & Ireland. We’d be happy to provide more information, discuss samples, or talk through formulation specifics.