SurfaTech is committed to protecting our oceans, using their patented molecular technology to create ingredients that are plastic free, coral reef safe and biodegradable. Their CosmoSurf® range is a great example of this; it includes natural based, environmentally-friendly film forming polymers and dispersants which have long-lasting water-resistant properties yet enhanced skin feel, and are designed to meet consumers’ demands for products that are cleaner, greener and more biodegradable.
In this blog post, we’re summarising SurfaTech’s CosmoSurf® range, outlining each ingredient’s key properties, uses and test data.
CosmoSurf® CE-140
INCI name: Stearyl/Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer
Part of CosmoSurf®’s CE series specifically designed for personal care and cosmetic formulations, CosmoSurf® CE-140 delivers substantive film forming properties whilst also maintaining a great sensory profile and spreadability. A high performing waterproofing polymer, it is natural based and has both solid and liquid domains. It utilises a solid C18 stearyl alcohol intermediate to deliver a balanced functional profile of solid-to-liquid in composition that leaves a soft silky barrier on the skin that has a melt point close to body temperature allowing it to liquefy when applied.
Key properties:
- Maintained high levels of SPF after an 80-minute water immersion test
- Provides exceptional sensory and skin feel
- Low concentrations needed for functional performance
Applications:
- High SPF waterproof sun care formulations
Test data:
An 80-minute water immersion test using a sample formulation of a waterproof sun cream with high SPF was completed. All three subjects were found to be Very Water Resistant (VWR):
CosmoSurf® DDG-20
INCI name: bis-octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer
CosmoSurf® DDG-20 is a film former that’s breathable, naturally derived from raw materials and has dispersion capabilities. Its breathable film is flexible, capable of holding actives on the skin and has the ability to deposit on a wet or hydrophobic surface.
Specifically designed for personal care formulations that require a balance of solubility, film formation and pigment dispersion functionality, it’s a complex ester system that utilises a branched ester to disperse pigments in a uniform manner to enhance dispersion stability. In addition, other components create a highly functional, hydrophobic barrier on the skin with superior esthetics. Overall, it creates a luxurious cream that nourishes, moisturises and protects the skin.
Key properties:
- Serves as a natural replacement to plastic Acrylate Copolymers in SPF products
- Develops a uniform, low viscosity dispersion of untreated iron oxides with exceptional skin feel
- Passed an 80-minute water immersion SPF test
- Biodegrades quickly, with a study showing that it had biodegraded by 30% in just 28 days
Applications:
- Natural, water-resistant sun care products
- Transfer-resistant pigmented facial care products
Test data:
An 80-minute water immersion test using a sample formulation of a waterproof sun cream with high SPF was completed. The two subjects were found to be Very Water Resistant (VWR):
CosmoSurf® DDG-28
INCI name: Bis-Dodecylhexyldecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer
CosmoSurf® DDG-28 is a film former, SPF booster and dispersant that’s naturally derived from raw materials, biodegradable and has exceptional skin feel that’s designed specifically for pigmented formulations that require a primary dispersant. A complex ester system, this ingredient utilises a branched ester to disperse pigments in a uniform manner to enhance the dispersion processing parameters and stability. In addition, it offers substantive film forming properties for retention of target ingredients for water-resistant claims.
This unique, natural based polymer will help reduce the surface tension profile of select oils allowing the formulations to achieve superior sensory attributes which are ideal for facial applications.
Key properties:
- Provides a natural, green replacement to synthetic dispersants that can be used with treated and untreated pigments
- Can be used to develop film forming properties that are natural based and provide exceptional skin feel
- Has a higher SPF performance compared to traditional dispersants
Applications:
- Pigmented facial formulations requiring a soft, silky spread, with broad spectrum requirements
- Zinc Oxide formulations with enhanced SPF properties
- Pigmented formulations with superior dispersion properties
Test data:
A dispersion viscosity profile test was completed, which compared DDG-28 with a benchmark dispersant.
The graph shows a viscosity curve of ZnO in C8-10 triglyceride and C8-10 triglyceride with 4% benchmark (red) and DDG-28 (blue).
CosmoSurf® PG 1-IS
INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer
CosmoSurf® PG 1-IS is a film forming polymer that has unique solubility and outstanding emolliency. It forms part of a series of products that are polyglycerol-derived and amphiphilic (with polar and non-polar groups bonded to the same polymer backbone), that provide outstanding skin aesthetics, barrier properties and film formation. Because they are soluble in alcohol, esters and oil, yet water insoluble, they can be utilised in many formulations.
There are two types of CosmoSurf® PGs: solid and liquid versions. CosmoSurf® PG 1-IS is a wax, based upon stearic and isostearic acid forming a waterproof film after application to the skin. The unique properties of this polymer are attributed to the polymer containing both solid and liquid domains. The solid domains allow for the film to be waxy and water resistant, while the liquid domains provide flexibility and easy application.
Key properties:
- Naturally derived
- Can be ECOCERT certified
- Wax solid, forming a waterproof film on skin
Applications:
- Hair care, skin care and sun care for natural water resistance
Test data:
Oil sunscreen and ZnO testing was undertaken. The results can be seen below:
Find out more about CosmoSurf® formulations
If you’d like to learn more about formulating with any of the CosmoSurf® ingredients listed above, simply fill out the contact form below and a member of our experienced technical team will be in touch. Ingredient samples are also available too.
