Cold process formulation is attracting a lot of attention at the moment, mainly due to the many practical benefits there are to be had. When you remove heating and cooling cycles it reduces energy use, shortens batch times and removes the risk of degrading heat-sensitive ingredients. For many production teams it also means simpler, more flexible processing.

 

Benefits of cold process formulation

 

• Energy savings: eliminating heating stages reduces energy consumption per batch, which has a direct impact on production costs
• Shorter batch times: without the time needed to heat, hold and cool, production cycles can be considerably faster
•  Ingredient integrity: some actives and heat-sensitive components perform better when they are not exposed to elevated temperatures
• Process simplicity: fewer steps and lower temperatures can offer more flexibility in how and where products are made
•  Sustainability: reduced energy use contributes to a lower carbon footprint, which is increasingly relevant for brands with environmental commitments
• Formulation clarity: cold process can be preferred for clear and transparent systems, where heat can introduce haze or instability.

The ingredients in this blog (GlycoButter from LABIO, Nireus+ 3651C from All-Plus, the MACKSPEC™ Emulsifying Thickener range from Verdant and Geropon® TC Clear MB from Syensqo) are all suitable for cold press formulation, read on for an overview of each one.

 

GlycoButter by LABIO

Shea butter is a well-established skin care ingredient valued for its fatty acid composition, natural vitamin content and moisturising and skin-regenerating properties. In its raw form it is a solid fat, insoluble in water, which has historically limited its use in aqueous formulations. Getting it to behave in those systems usually requires heat and emulsification.

GlycoButter takes a different approach. It uses MEL (Mannosylerythritol Lipid), a biosurfactant produced through natural fermentation, to encapsulate shea butter in a stable, water-soluble liquid. The product is a transparent, slightly yellow liquid that can be added directly to the aqueous phase at room temperature, with no melting or emulsification steps needed. Clinical testing shows it outperforms hyaluronic acid solution on skin hydration both immediately after application and over a six-hour period. 

Example Formulation

Ceramide Enriched Serum

A nourishing, enriched serum with ceramides.This formulation uses Dolcevia and a vegan friendly form of collagen called Amino Collagen to keep skin looking soft, serene and supple and GreenShot-Exosome, which is a novel ingredient based on broccoli micro-green exosomes to rejuvenate ageing skin.

 

Nireus+ 3651C by All-Plus

Nireus+ 3651C (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) is a white powder thickener and stabiliser that works without heat. It swells on contact with water, building viscosity through electrostatic repulsion within the polymer network. In a cold process it is added to the oil phase, then activates naturally as water is introduced.

It forms clear hydrogels, is effective in hydroalcoholic systems containing up to 70% ethanol, works across a pH range of 4 to 9 and can produce stable, transparent gel creams without a separate emulsifier.

Please contact our team for further information on suitable formulations and applications.

 

MACKSPEC™ Emulsifying Thickeners by Verdant

The MACKSPEC™ range is a collection of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate-based emulsifying thickeners that combine thickening, emulsification and stabilisation in a single ingredient. Cold process compatibility comes from the way they are structured. As supplied, each grade is an inverse emulsion with the thickening polymer held within water droplets dispersed in oil. When slowly added to water at room temperature, the emulsion inverts, the polymer is released into the water phase and viscosity builds through electrostatic repulsion. 

The following grades are all suitable for cold process: MACKSPEC™ AM50S, ST45, HA40, HA100L, MP40 and MP100. 

Example Formulation

Ceramide Enriched Serum

A nourishing, enriched serum with ceramides.This formulation uses Dolcevia and a vegan friendly form of collagen called Amino Collagen to keep skin looking soft, serene and supple and GreenShot-Exosome, which is a novel ingredient based on broccoli micro-green exosomes to rejuvenate ageing skin.

 

Geropon® TC Clear MB by Syensqo

Taurates are a well regarded class of sulfate-free surfactant. They are mild, cleanse effectively, carry a high natural origin index and are stable across a broad pH range. The handling requirements of traditional grades have been the main practical hurdle: paste grades need heating and thorough mixing before use, which makes them less straightforward to work with in cold process systems.

Geropon® TC Clear MB by Syensqo is a 30% active liquid taurate (INCI: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) supplied as a clear, pourable liquid with no pre-treatment required. It is added directly to water at room temperature. Performance is consistent with other taurate grades: rich, creamy foam, broad pH stability and suitability for clear formulations. Its low salt content (NaCl below 0.5%) gives useful flexibility in viscosity building, and stability testing confirms it resists phase separation and passes microbial challenge testing for bacteria, yeast and mould.

Example Formulation

SLS/SLES Free Shampoo 137 

A high foaming, clear and luxurious feeling shampoo which is sulfate free. The addition of Vegequat not only helps provide a great conditioning effect, but it can also help boost and stabilise the foam as well as the viscosity of the formulation. 

 

Get in Touch

Technical data sheets, samples and formulation support for all four ingredients are available from the HARKE UK & Ireland team. Get in touch to discuss your next formulation with our team.