Written by Sam Wood in our Technical Team
Since the dawn of the industrial revolution, pollution has become an ever-increasing issue as society has reaped the benefits of new technologies and improvements in quality of life that our ancestors could only dream of.
But with these developments, the world has changed in terms of the atmosphere, and new issues have arisen, both globally and personally. We are now learning more about the damage these pollutants cause to our skin cells.
The Impact of Pollutants on Skin
During our skin cells’ metabolism, they can create reactive oxidative species (or ROS), which are chemically active molecules that contribute to both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. The body has an in-built mechanism to break down these species using enzymes like superoxide dismutase. However, ageing can be exacerbated by external factors, some of which we can control, such as blue light emissions, and others we cannot, such as pollution.
These external pollutant factors include heavy metals, tobacco and other forms of smoke, or drugs which stimulate a higher than normal ROS count. But, as the technologies of the past have also been proven to weaken our planet’s radiation defences, ionising radiation can create a much larger number of these harmful species through radiolysis which occurs in the presence of atmospheric water. In this process the water molecules lose electrons, allowing the result to become highly reactive.
These species could then instigate a chain reaction, removing electrons from wherever it can to convert itself back to oxygen. However this process aims quite frequently at the DNA within our cells and can cause substantial damage.
Sugar can also be a huge part of the ageing process as it can bind to proteins, nucleic acids and lipids within our cells, which creates Advanced Glycation End products. These end products are responsible for inflammation and collagen crosslinking within our cells. When oxidative stresses are introduced into the system it can cause a decrease in the activity of our own bodies’ defences. This is also enhanced by the mutual interactions between the AGE’s and the ROS.
Anti-Pollution Actives
Over the years, our suppliers have conducted an immense amount of research to help tackle the ageing caused by pollution in the modern world.
BiPure
BiPure (Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10, Citrate Buffer, Glycerin) is a multi-functional active ingredient by Sinerga that can help combat both ageing and pollution. The appearance of 2 Carnosine-like protein structures on either end of the molecule allows for both anti-oxidant and anti-glycation properties. Sinerga have combined this with an azelaic moiety which is effective at improving the radiance and purifying properties within the skin, giving a complete solution to protect the wellness of our skin cells.
Sinerga’s studies have shown a proven effect at inhibiting up to 41% of Radical Species that have been created through radiolysis even resisting the damage long after being exposed. They have also shown that BiPure can inhibit the body’s own free radical production by preventing up to 60% of the production in a dose dependent effect.
BiPure also has a great ability to reduce the Advanced Glycation End-Products from forming, thus preventing damage within our own cells helping to maintain the dermal elastic matrix.
Leniphenol
Sinerga’s drive to find sustainable ingredients has led them to discover the novel balanced polyphenol blend derived from the bark of FSC certified Industrial Waste Wood, giving the ingredient name of Leniphenol.
Leniphenol (Pinus Radiata Extact) is another multi-functional active which aims at protecting and soothing the skin with other key benefits such as anti-ageing and helping to boost the SPF of sun-screen formulation.
Sinerga have proven efficacy that the blend of the 3 polyphenols selected directly increases the activity of the Superoxide dismutase enzyme by up to 75% in a dose dependant effect, but also a phenomenal ability to inhibit the release of ROS post UV exposure which is much higher compared to the more commonly used anti-oxidant of Vitamin C at the same active level.
With Leniphenol, Sinerga conducted a special test using guidelines from the National Institute of Standards & Technologies to look at the cell viability after exposure to a certified standard atmospheric particulate. This standard particulate comprises polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, pesticides and polychlorinated biphenyls amongst other organic pollutants in well-defined concentrations. In this in vitro test they found that skin cells treated with Leniphenol have an improved viability compared to untreated cells.
UpCycling Innovations
As both consumers and suppliers are mindful of the environments, our suppliers have also begun investigating ingredients that centre on the up-cycling of waste industries that co-exist to see if there are benefits that can be shared with the cosmetic and personal care industry. As a result both Sinerga and EG Actives have come up with options that help tackle both pollutant damage to our skin and waste from other industries.
Up-Citrus Extract
Sinerga’s offering centres on the waste of the citrus industry of Italy, with a particular focus on both the Orange and the Tangerine to create a multi-functional active of Up-Citrus Extract (Citrus Aurantium Sinensis Peel Extract, Citrus Reticulate Peel Extract).
This novel blend is rich in bioactive compounds including polyphenols, polysaccharides and of course ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). This gives it a great conditioning and a metal detox effect on the hair, micro-biome balancing and soothing on the scalp, and a great ingredient for skin care as an anti-oxidant, along with helping give the skin a glowing, more energised look.
When testing Up-Citrus Extract in an in vitro test in a somewhat similar manner to the Leniphenol tests, Sinerga managed to ascertain an inhibition of UV-induced ROS production of up to nearly 60% when Up-Citrus extract is used at 5mg/ml.
Hydroxytirosol
As part of our expanded range of suppliers into the personal care industry, we also represent a Spanish company called EG Actives.
EG Actives’ story starts with the other great Mediterranean staple – the olive. A few years ago, they managed to secure a grant from their government to investigate the beneficial molecules and chemistries that came from the waste of the olive oil industry. This research culminated in two actives that have proven efficacy for a myriad of different applications, but with an eye on the trend for up-cycled ingredients.
Of their two actives, the one with the real proven anti-oxidant effect is the Olive Active Hydroxytirosol. This active is a powerful and potent polyphenol which is effective at all levels against both internal and environmental disruption from the radical oxidative species, but equally helping to prevent cellular ageing and the skin membrane from being dehydrated; as well as their own patented data for skin brightening. The Hydroxytirosol polyphenol is proven to be much more superior compared to many popular anti-oxidants on the market including Co-enzyme Q10, Vitamin E and Vitamin C. In relation to the vitamins mentioned, EG Actives have proven that not only is Hydroxytirosol 1.5 times more efficacious compared to Vitamin E, it also shares Vitamin E’s stability but with the same anti-oxidant power of Vitamin C.
In addition to these potent anti-oxidant effects, EG Actives have proven that Hydroxytirosol has double the efficacy compared to Vitamin E to aid in reparation of the skin, as well as aiding to boost the SPF of your formulation to help further protect the skin from damage.
In order to truly get the best out of the active, it exists in several forms. This includes a 20% and 40% extract, but also an encapsulated variant which can help prevent colour changes in the final formulation from oxidative damage and a better penetration of the active.
Partnering for Innovative Solutions
At HARKE UK & Ireland, we are proud to work with suppliers like Sinerga and EG Actives, offering innovative solutions to tackle pollution-induced skin damage. If these actives are of interest, please contact our office or technical team to learn more or request a sample.
